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hair conditioners

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Hair conditioners

The basic demands on a conditioner are to make hair shiny and manageable. That isn't particularly difficult to do and so there is not that much difference between one conditioner and another in terms of basic ingredients. The only clear differences between different hair conditioning products is whether they have an oil base or a silicone base, whether they contain a film forming ingredient to make the hair thicker, and the particular concentrations of oil and/or silicone and/or film forming agent in the conditioner.

The basic formulation may be a factor in finding what is a good conditioner for you, but equally the amount of conditioner you apply is important. Too much and your hair may feel greasy. Too little and the hair feels dry. Whatever conditioner you use play around with the amount you apply to see if their is a significant change in hair quality. Pick the conditioner type most appropriate for your hair (dry, normal, greasy), but basically, conditioners for dry hair have a more concentrated formula than that labeled for greasy hair. So in theory, if you have greasy hair you can use the formulation for dry hair but use very little of it.

If you have oily skin but your hair is dry you should try to apply the conditioner only to the hair away from the skin. Difficult to do perhaps, but possible if your hair is reasonably long. The natural oils will take care of hair conditioning close to the scalp. If you apply conditioner to an oily scalp, the oils plus conditioner may make the hair rather heavy and limp looking.

It may be best to avoid conditioners with herbal ingredients. If you are allergic to any of the ingredients you may find seborrheic dermatitis is exacerbated by them. The exception may be Jojoba oil which is the least allergenic of the natural oils. Conditioners with hair coating and thickening agents in them may also induce a reaction in those with snesitive skin. There have been several reports of adverse reactions to collagen containing conditioners.

My personal preference is for a silicone based conditioner. Oil based conditioners can be a bit much for my hair. Silicone makes for a nice shine without stickiness. It's non-allergenic too. I also prefer separate conditioner rather than the shampoo and conditioner in one. Separate conditioner is almost always more effective and two in one shampoos can lead to a buildup of a dull film on the hair. Two in one shampoo and conditioner products bring the advantage of reducing time in the shower, but that is all. If you have the time, use seperate shampoo and conditioner and almost invariably you will get a better result - even when using the products from the same maker of the two in one shampoo.


Hair conditioner references

  • Niinimaki A, Niinimaki M, Makinen-Kiljunen S, Hannuksela M. Contact urticaria from protein hydrolysates in hair conditioners. Allergy. 1998 Nov;53(11):1078-82.
  • Rushton H, Gummer CL, Flasch H. 2-in-1 shampoo technology: state-of-the-art shampoo and conditioner in one. Skin Pharmacol. 1994;7(1-2):78-83.
  • Goddard ED. Mechanisms in combination cleaner/conditioner systems. J Cosmet Sci. 2002 Sep-Oct;53(5):283-6.
  • Bolduc C, Shapiro J. Hair care products: waving, straightening, conditioning, and coloring. Clin Dermatol. 2001 Jul-Aug;19(4):431-6.
  • Wu W, Alkema J, Shay GD, Basset DR. Quantitative methods for evaluating optical and frictional properties of cationic polymers. J Cosmet Sci. 2001 Jan-Feb;52(1):51-65.
  • Trueb RM; Swiss Trichology Study Group. The value of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Dermatology. 2001;202(4):275-82.
  • Schalock PC, Storrs FJ, Morrison L. Contact urticaria from panthenol in hair conditioner. Contact Dermatitis. 2000 Oct;43(4):223.
  • Guin JD. Reaction to cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, an amphoteric surfactant and conditioner. Contact Dermatitis. 2000 May;42(5):284.
  • Smith HR, Wakelin SH, White IR. Banana hair conditioner and natural rubber latex allergy. Contact Dermatitis. 1998 Oct;39(4):202.
  • Freeman S, Lee MS. Contact urticaria to hair conditioner. Contact Dermatitis. 1996 Sep;35(3):195-6.
  • Pasche-Koo F, Claeys M, Hauser C. Contact urticaria with systemic symptoms caused by bovine collagen in a hair conditioner. Am J Contact Dermat. 1996 Mar;7(1):56-7.
  • Draelos ZK. Hair cosmetics. Dermatol Clin. 1991 Jan;9(1):19-27.
  • O'Donoghue MN. Hair cosmetics. Dermatol Clin. 1987 Jul;5(3):619-26.

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