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Men's
hair grooming preparations
In
the past men's hair grooming products were more popular than they
are today. Grooming aids in the 1950s and earlier were often called
hair tonics to suggest some kind of medicinal property, but they
were purely cosmetic preparations. While less popular today , hair
grooming aids are still widely available. They can be divided into
five main groups: 1) liquid and solid brilliantines and pomades,
2) alcohol based lotions, 3) emulsions, 4) gels and 5) aerosols.
Brilliantines
and pomades
 Brilliantines and pomades are usually sold or semi solid preparations
applied to the hair and combed in. The primary ingredient is an
oil sometimes organic like coconut oil but more often a mineral
oil. The products provide a high degree of shine and lubrication.
They can be quite useful for those men with extremely curly hair.
While men with curly hair have no less natural production of natural
oils, the curl of the hair means the oils are not readily spread
along the full length of the hair fiber. This can result in rather
dry looking curly hair. The lack of evenly distributed natural
oils
also means the hair can be more difficult to brush and comb. Brilliantines
and pomades can overcome these problems. Some men can develop an
adverse reaction to the products and may develop a folliculitis
or spots, especially along the hairline.
Alcohol
based lotions
These are oils in solution with alcohol. Up until
the 1960s castor oil or palm oil was the main ingredient but today
the products are made with synthetic oils. When applied to the
hair
the alcohol evaporates quickly to leave a thin film of oil over
the hair. This is a lighter grooming aid than a brilliantine or
pomade and more suited to those who just want a little help with
untangling hair and giving some extra shine. Because alcohol can
be quite drying and irritating to the scalp skin, these preparations
are not popular today.
Emulsions
Emulsions were first developed in the second world war when the
alcohol was in short supply which prohibited the manufacture of
oil in alcohol lotions. Emulsions can be found in both liquid and
semi solid forms made with synthetic oils, often mineral oil. These
products are put on the hands, rubbed and then applied quickly to
the hair and combed in. There are two types of emulsions and cream
hair dressings available: oil in water emulsions and water in oil
emulsions. The main difference is that oil in water emulsions can
be diluted with water and the product can be quickly washed from
the hands or hair. Water in oil emulsions are more resistant and
must be removed with soap or shampoo.
Gels
Gels are perhaps the most popular grooming agent for men today.
These are usually transparent gels and come in two basic types;
oil in water emulsions and synthetic polymers in water. The oil
in water preparations are much like a standard emulsion or alcohol
solution and are used to impart some shine to the hair and to help
detangle the hair when brushing and combing. Synthetic polymer based
gels are a little different. These gels consist of a high molecular
weight plastic polymer. When they are applied to the hair the fibers
are coated with the polymer-water mix. The water evaporates to leave
a thin film of the polymer over the hair. The polymers form a light,
flexible and transparent coating that gives some shine and reduces
static and tangle. Sometimes the gels contain additional agents
for extra shine or for extra hold. In this way the gels can also
be used as a styling agent. Because they are not made from oils
these synthetic polymer based gels are not greasy and do not give
the slick look that oils do. There is very little risk of adverse
reactions with these products. The synthetic polymers are quite
inert and the other main ingredient is harmless water. Very rarely
an individual may have an allergic reaction to the product, usually
the problem is the perfume or preservative rather than the main
polymer ingredient. Switching brands usually solves the problem.
Aerosols
Aerosols for men are a lot like the sprays for women, but just
in different packaging and with a different perfume. They are simply
branded in a way that appeals to men and allows men to avoid the
embarrassment of buying a hair spray advertised to women. The only
significant difference between sprays for men and women is that
the sprays pitched at men may be less concentrated and leave a softer
film on the hair. Mostly, aerosols contain synthetic resins although
a few are another variant on the oil in water or alcohol emulsion.
Check the ingredients list on the back of the can to find out which.
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