Things
that can go wrong with permanent hair dyes
Because permanent dyes undergo a chemical reaction to become fully
effective, the constituent parts are relatively unstable. The product
has a specific shelf life after which it should not be used. Using
out of date oxidation dyes will quite likely leave you with a hair
color very different from the one listed on the box! Old hair dyes
should be thrown away.
Again because the dye undergoes a chemical reaction, there can
be changes in the end result if the reaction is not conducted under
optimal conditions. If too much of the dye intermediate is mixed
with the peroxide or vice versa, or if the mixing and application
to the hair is done in a temperature that is too hot or too cold,
the end result can be quite different from that expected. If you
dye your hair at home be careful to follow the instructions for
the dye preparation exactly and avoid extremes of temperature. Also
be aware that applying the dye for too long a time may also change
the end result.
More seriously, because permanent hair dyes affect the chemical
nature of the hair, if they are applied inappropriately they can
reduce the hair strength. Applying the hair dye for too long, applying
too frequently, using old hair dye that is chemically unstable,
can each adversely affect hair strength. If the hair is significantly
weakened by the chemicals in the dye there may be hair damage, breakage,
and hair loss.
The most obvious problem with permanent hair dyes is that if you
do not like the end result, the color is difficult to remove or
hide. While it is possible to bleach out the hair dye or reapply
a new dye, the repeated processing can severely damage hair and
it is best to avoid. Unfortunately, there are many instances of
individuals using a permanent hair dye, not being pleased with the
result and reapplying the dye, a new dye, or getting the dye bleached
out. The end result is often severe hair damage, breakage, and hair
loss.
Hair
dyeing frequency
For most people the general rule is that you should not dye your
hair more than once every three to four weeks. More frequent applications
may result in irreversible hair damage. If you need to touch up
the "roots" more frequently using a permanent dye this
is possible to do with some care. The important thing is not to
reapply the hair dye to hair that has already been dyed previously.
This repeated chemical processing may be too much for the hair to
take. The hair roots are new hair not previously exposed to the
dye process. This hair should be stronger than the dyed hair and
so you can touch up these areas. For this kind of touching up it
is better to go to a professional salon where someone else can apply
the dye and make sure they are only applying to the undyed hair
roots and not to the previously dyed hair elsewhere.
More usually, and especially for home maintenance, touching up
can be done with temporary acid color rinses or color sticks. These
preparations are water soluble and will wash out. This brings the
disadvantage of more needing more frequent reapplication to maintain
the result, but the advantage is there is no danger of over processing
the hair.
For some people even a frequency of three to four weeks may be
too much. African American hair that is tightly coiled has a tendency
to be more easily damaged in processing. The coiling of the hair
puts great physical stress on the outer curve of a hair coil and
outer cuticle is more likely to flake and expose the softer cortex
underneath. As a result, chemicals applied to this area have greater
potency and can induce greater damage. If the chemicals further
weaken the hair significantly, then the hair may be liable to break
at these damage "nodes" in the individual hair fibers.
For those who have already undergone chemical processes such has
relaxing or perming the hair, the additional hair dye chemicals
may also weaken the hair and lead to damage through over processing.
People need to be aware of how much processing their hair can take
before the damage becomes obvious. If in doubt the safest approach
is to have the processes done in an experienced salon where the
people will be knowledgeable about how much processing can be done
and how to dye already processed hair.
You should not try to change your hair color too frequently or
too radically. The greater the degree of hair color change the more
risk of hair damage there is. To go from black hair to peroxide
blond is virtually impossible without seriously damaging the hair.
Damaged hair is pretty obvious. It looks dull, dry and lifeless.
Those who go from dark hair to very light hair can end up with a
green tint to the blond color. This happens less frequently with
modern dyes than previously, but the is a risk of green hair development
if individuals with dyed blond hair go swimming in highly chlorinated
water or in copper rich water. The chlorine or copper reacts with
the dye chemicals in the hair to create a green color. Being blonde,
the green color readily shows in the hair.
The most common complaints of hair damage through dying comes from
those who have attempted this at home. Inexperience often leads
to poor results or abuse of hair dye with too frequent or too drastic
a change in hair color leading to permanent hair damage. You must
remember there is only so much your hair can take and it is best
not to overdo the processing - unless you are willing to risk hair
breakage and fall out.
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