When
permanent waves or straighteners do not take
Sometimes a wave or straightening process does not "take".
The reason for this is often attributed by the salon stylist and
the customer to a variety of causes from medications to the weather.
However, there is little evidence that the environment can significantly
influence the outcome of hair straightening and waving. The procedure
involves application of a strong alkaline solution, typically thioglycolic
acid. At the right concentration and applied for the right time
duration should be quite capable of altering the chemical bonds
in hair to enable its styling into a new shape. A neutralizing agent
such as hydrogen peroxide should be quite potent enough to stop
the reaction and fix the hair in its new shape.
Waves and straighteners can fail for numerous reasons, mostly to
do with the chemical process itself and the type of hair to which
it is applied. Sometimes the chemicals are not applied appropriately
or in the right concentrations. If the chemicals are too weak or
not left on the hair for long enough then inevitably the waving
or straightening process will not take. If the neutralizer is not
applied properly and not allowed to completely stop the hair biochemical
bond breaking process of the thioglycolic acid Then the chemical
bonds can gradually revert to their previous form. If hydrogen peroxide
is the neutralizer you should be aware the chemical is somewhat
unstable and has a limited shelf life. If the hydrogen peroxide
is too old it will be an ineffective neutralizer.
Hair texture prior to application of the chemicals will affect
the outcome of the process. Fine and limp hair is usually more resistant
to permanent waving and this hair type may need a stronger solution
of chemicals or a longer exposure time to get the desired effect.
Hair that is wiry, brittle or damaged from another chemical process
also resists waving and straightening. Because this kind of hair
is already weaker than normal there is a greater risk of hair breakage
if the concentration of waving and straightening chemicals is made
stronger. Special care is required to achieve a good result and
avoid severe damage with this type of hair.
A popular myth claims that waving and straightening hair is less
successful during pregnancy. There is no actual evidence to prove
that hair changes significantly during pregnancy. There may be an
increase in oil production from the sebaceous gland which will subtly
change the texture of hair, but that is all. The chemical processes
involved in hair waving and straightening should still be fully
effective. It may be that salon stylists are concerned about using
potentially quite harmful chemicals on pregnant women and use this
myth as a way to avoid conducting the process. However, while the
chemicals are quite potent, there is no risk to an unborn child
if a pregnant woman has hair waving or straightening process done.
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