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environment, weathering and hair color changes

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Environment, weathering and hair color changes

While the primary causes of hair color are due to our genes and their effects on the amount and type of melanin pigment production, there can also be changes in hair color due to environmental influences. The environment can affect hair in two ways, by physical action and by chemical reaction.

Chemical action on the hair is arguably becoming more of a problem with the increased frequency of chemical exposure that individuals encounter with modern living. Melanin pigment can be altered through interaction with acids and alkalis. Acid interaction darkens hair while alkali lightens hair color. Whether acid and alkali in air are present in high enough quantities to significantly interact with hair pigment remains to be determined, but acids and alkali are encountered in water supplies and as detergents in shampoos. Such exposure to acid and alkali solutions can affect hair color.

The effect of sunlight on hair can have a direct effect on color that may be accentuated in the presence of polluted air. With time, UV light degrades melanin pigment and bleaches the hair fiber. Black and dark brown hair may change into a lighter brown. Light brown and blonde hair can be bleached completely white with chronic sunlight exposure.

Hair color may seem to change as a result of physical actions on the hair or "weathering". A healthy hair cuticle is fairly smooth and this gives hair a richer color. However, a poor cuticle is rough and flaky or sometimes the cuticle may be completely stripped away. This rough surface to the hair fiber results in much reflection and refraction of light. This gives an observer the impression that the hair color is lighter than it actually is. The color also has a dull dry appearance. Such physical weathering and consequent hair color changes most commonly occurs in people with heavily processed hair, those who use harsh detergents for washing, and those who excessively brush or otherwise manipulate their hair. In people with long hair the observer may see a color change from root to tip. The ends of the hair are the oldest hair and thus will be the most weathered hair. The hair roots are new hair and the cuticle here should be least damaged. As a result, the hair ends may seem to have a lighter color than the hair roots.

Bathing in salt water, whether it is sea water or high mineral salt containing tap water, can affect hair color. Whilst the salts dissolved in water might chemically interact with the pigment in hair, they may also affect the physical properties of the hair fiber. As hair washed in salt rich water dries out the salts may crystallize within the hair fiber and cuticle. This may physically break down the structural integrity of the hair and lift up the cuticle. The result may be weathered hair and an apparent reduction in hair color.

Some people are more susceptible to environment induced hair color changes than others as a result of secondary internal factors such as hormones and general genetic disposition. So while some people can wash their hair with strong alkali detergents with impunity, others with exactly the same hair color may find the same treatment significantly affects their hair color.


Environment, weathering and hair color changes references

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  • Bousquet V, Black D, Liviero C, Lagarde JM, Gall Y. Analysis of cuticle relief for hair photoprotection evaluation. Validation study. Curr Probl Dermatol. 1998;26:196-202.
  • Dawber R. Hair: its structure and response to cosmetic preparations. Clin Dermatol. 1996 Jan-Feb;14(1):105-12.
  • Cline DJ. Changes in hair color. Dermatol Clin. 1988 Apr;6(2):295-303.
  • Van Neste D, Houbion Y. Office diagnosis of changes in hair cuticular cell patterns. Arch Dermatol. 1986 Jul;122(7):750-2.
  • Findlay GH. An optical study of human hair colour in normal and abnormal conditions. Br J Dermatol. 1982 Nov;107(5):517-27.
  • Menkart J. Damaged hair. Cutis. 1979 Mar;23(3):276-8.
  • Rook A. The clinical importance of 'weathering' in human hair. Br J Dermatol. 1976 Jul;95(1):111-2.
  • Zaun H. [Hair cosmetics] Dtsch Med Wochenschr. 1972 Oct 13;97(41):1572.

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